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#4 (permalink) |
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I'm Banned
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 30 2000
Location: Ontario
Age: 45
Posts: 52,065
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A fluorescent lamp contains wire coils, called electrodes or cathodes, at both ends and their purpose is to conduct current into the lamp. These coils are coated with an electron emissive material that enhances the release of electrons from the coils ~
especially during the starting process and less so during lamp operation. During starting and operation, the electrodes heat up and the emitter material on the coils is gradually evaporated. Some of this evaporated material will precipitate onto the wall of the glass tube near the coils. This appears as gray or gray/black deposits inside the glass at the ends of the lamp. The electrodes in high performance lamps (140w and higher) which achieve exceptionally intensive UV output, are greatly stressed by the high starting and operating currents. As a result, “end darkening” occurs more easily with these lamps, especially if the lamps are not operated under optimal conditions (i.e., inadequate cooling). Additionally, starters for these lamps must endure very severe treatment during the starting process. As these starters reach the end of their expected life - they can contribute to the stress placed upon the lamps’ electrodes - thus increasing the rate of “end darkening”. For this reason, starters should be replaced regularly. A very good practice is to change starters each time new lamps are installed. However, it is important to understand that the dark deposits at the ends of the lamps do not reduce the tanning power of the lamp. This is because they occur at the lamp ends in an area where little UV radiation is produced. Even when the lamp becomes very dark at the ends - there is virtually no influence on tanning effectiveness. Fast facts about “end darkening” • “End darkening” has virtually no influence on tanning performance or effectiveness • Salon operators can greatly reduce “end darkening” by changing their lamp starters at regular, prescribed intervals • Hard and/or frequent starting, inadequate lamp cooling, and worn starters contribute to “end darkening” That's the skinny on that topic folks. _________________ [ This Message was edited by: Neon Beach on 2004-11-29 23:57 ] |
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#8 (permalink) |
![]() Join Date: Jan 21 2002
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Nice post Neon..very informative.
OUTanning, The question was: Quote:How many hours are you changing your bulbs out at? I know what the manufacturer says, but the ends of my bulbs are getting black already and it's only been about 150 hours. My first concern is that a MFG/distie told you that about the lamps....and I hope they did not refer to them as bulbs. If true on both parts~ get a new distie. JMHO Now, Since Neon so informatively answered the blackened ends part...I will try to help you on the part: Quote: How many hours are you changing your bulbs out at? As a rule of thumb most seasoned salon owners use UV meter... to determine when the "lamps' need to be changed. It takes the guess work out of it. As well as, save you serious ching. There are different lamps and of course different types of meters. I have base beds(LP) and VHR units...so for my purposes I only use the Solar Meter 5.0. It is fairly inexpensive. And has earned it's cost back 10 fold for the 2 years I have been using it. Disties tell you what you want to hear. Example: "These New lamps kick A$$, really cheap and last up to 1500 hours" What you hear is your gonna save money, get longer tanning hours out of teh lamps and have happy clients. Not necessarily the truth. Ahhhh but UV Meter(Even a 5.0) will have the truth.. I could be wrong but this is what I was told and I have never had happier clients. Say you currently have a basic 100watt LP Lamp we will call it Lamp A. @ $9.99---- That meter at 25.6 on lamp change(with Acrylic on) and after the burn in time of 50 hours it still meters @ 24.57 That number equals Your starting 'Stationary Reading' on those lamps. Create a chart to write down the Intial Meter Reading(IMR), date the date of lamp change. Log the hours on your bed. After 50 hours record the 24.49 reading.(SMR) (If you do this chart in MicroSoft Excel you can have it do the math for you. ) That reading indicates a drop of 4.3% Let's say that Lamp A. last 489 hours before dropping below the 25% range. Now afterwards you meter every 100 hours. record you meter readings when you get to a 20-25% drop from the (IMR) Change the lamp. Some batches of lamps will last longer but I have had lamps last up to 625 hours without droping down below 25% loss. The average is about 450-500 hours. And with out using a meter you could be throwing away lamps that have over 100 hours left one them. *Note: some salon owers do it at 30-35% I prefer 20-25%. So Now.....to continue--- If The 'NEW' and cheaper Lamp B. That the distie is tryin to sell you for a savings of $2.50 per lamp... Has a IMR of 22.9 and a SMR @ 50 hours is 21.3 equaling a 6.9% drop after only 50 hours. And the lamps drop to 25% loss in 390 hours. Just in case I confused you, this should clear it up...here is a side by side veiw of the data above. "NEW" Lamp B.-IMR~22.9, SMR~21.3 (6.9 Loss)-"Useful" life of Lamp-390 Hrs Lamp A. -IMR~25.9, SMR~24.9 (4.3 Loss)"Useful" life of Lamp-489 Hrs Now pop quiz-----Did you save any money? Well techinically- yes, if you use the lamps to the Distie/MFG recommended hours. But your clients would not be happy. The exapmle say it all.Now secondary the average hours I get out of my VHR Lamps are app 400-450 hours. HP facials about the same.there are many meters on teh market this is all I use mine for. Now that you know, good luck! and Happy lamp changing!!! PS. I break my beds down app. every 80 to 100 to clean them....after which I meter them to keep track. This helps me not forget to meter them and keep the units running clean cool and tanning well. Mj _________________ Jane... You Ignorant Sl*t!!! [ This Message was edited by: MJ on 2004-11-30 00:00 ] |
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