Skin Tanning and Light Protection

BooBop · 06-13-2002, 12:42 PM

Cosmetic Aspects: Likes and dislikes differ, and personal taste can always change. But even so there always appears to be a happy medium of timeless elegance. With respect to tanning, the desired look falls somewhere between the pasty white facdes of yesteryear and the "overdone" tan which leaves the skin dry and leathery. Most preferable is a fresh-looking summer tan. Everything should be done in moderation.

Light Protection: nature did not provide us with skin pigmentation as built-in cosmetic convenience. Instead, pigmentation as the callosity (thickening of the crneum) and as photoprotections(stabilization of the germ-plasm) acts as a screen to protect the body against too much sun.

Melanin Sunthesis through UVB: Deep down in the skin are special cells called melanocytes. Once these are stimulated with UV light, they will utilize the amino acid tyrosine which they have stored up to produce the pigment melanin. Because these substances only absorb ultraviolet light of approximately 320nm, UVB rays must be present in order to achieve melanin production.

UVA Melanogenesis: UVA can also formulate melanin but only when there exists enough photsensitizing material in the skin to bring about a UVB-type reaction. However, this requires a very high radiation intensity for a long period of time. On the other hand, UVB can induce the same desird melanin production utilizing very low levels of radiation with more frequent exposures (21). In addition, UVB will not penetrate as deeply into the lower layer of connective tissue in the skin.

Melanin protects DNA: The pale pink colored melanin granules fromed in the melanocytes will travel upward toward the horny layer of croneum. They are stroed around the nuclei of the keratin cells there. In this manner, the pigment protects the UVB sensitive DNA located inside the nuclei without impeding the other positive effects of ultraviolet light. The energy absorbed by the pigment granules will be returned to the cell in form of heat.

Pigment Darkening by UVA: In the preliminary stages of meleanin production, very little protection is offered to the skin. In order to render the pigmentation process effective, the melanin granules must darken (oxidize). this requires a higher dosage of long wave UVA.

Antioxidats: The dosage of UVA must be sufficiently high in order to provide enough energy to initiate the oxidation process. It must be remembered that UVA rays do not carry as much energy as UVB ray. Longwave radition is essential becasue high does of shortwave rays will activate substances in the body which will hinder the tannin process such as asorbic acid and cystenine. these anti-oxidant not only inhibit oxidation of pigment but can even revers the proess.

Thus, UVB serves to synthesize the pigment granules while UVA ensures their oxidation. Together they form a light protection mechanism.

Oh Lord, someone stop me before I copy the whole book here.

Sunbathing Today 2. revised Freidrich Wolff

_________________
Barkin with the Big Dog since April 2002
Mitzi

[ This Message was edited by: Mitzi on 2002-06-13 13:10 ][ This Message was edited by: Chippp on 2002-06-13 14:49 ]

Haole Mark · 06-13-2002, 09:12 PM

Mitzi, I've asked this question before and no one gave an adequete response. Since by definition antioxidents hinder tanning(oxidation of melanin) why are antioxidents proudly featured in high quality Lotions?

BooBop · 06-13-2002, 09:28 PM

We will get you the answer soon. Promise.

BooBop · 06-14-2002, 10:09 AM

Haole, I have someone working on an answer for us. Eric Dann, our resident chemist will be address this soon.

Formulated Solutions · 06-14-2002, 10:57 AM

Haole Mark,

Good question, and I have pondered the question as well. In the formulation of products, especially ones that are derived to improve the quality of ones tanned skin; certainly a balance of ingredients, regardless of purpose is paramount to achieve the best results.

The best explanation that I have been given, or the best answer that I could derive to the question is to understand the difference between Free-Radical Oxidation and UV-Induced Oxidation. There is a difference in the method of action, and how it will relate to ones ability to tan.

The term Free Radical Oxidation is a generalized term used to describe an atom or molecule that has a reactive unbalanced number of valance electrons. Free Radicals are constantly attacking and waging havoc on our healthy cells, attempting to regain electrochemical stability. Free Radical Oxidation, a process by which Free Radicals rip electrons from normal molecules or cells, is one of the main reasons our cells are degraded and damaged over time, and Free Radicals become present in our bodies thorough both natural internal processes and external environmental influences.

UV-Induced Oxidation creates basically the same type of instability in atoms or molecules, as does a free radical, and certainly has the potential to create other free radicals, however is unique in the fact that the electronic instability is solely caused by the UV exposure.

When we use anti-oxidants in products, the list being almost endless of different forms of anti-oxidants, we are working toward the “scavenging” of free radicals within the skin, both naturally occurring and free radicals caused by the exposure to UV. This is a good thing and works to protect the skin.

Ok, so then why use these in Tanning products, if everyone says the tanning is also a form of oxidation?

Remember the Tan that we get from UV is (in simplified terms) is like a two-step process (not in any order)
The direct oxidation of melanin or (tanning) also known as the Meirowsky phenomenon, in which you are getting the immediate pigment darkening of the Eumelain already present with in the skin. This oxidation caused by the direct UV exposure is anti-oxidant independent, and the long chain rod like Eumelain polymer darkens, even in the presence of high concentration of anti-oxidants. (Has more to do with the wavelength of light being absorbed by the molecule.) Pheomelanin is not stable under the same wavelengths of UV and tends to decompose.

So as you know tanning is a controlled process, and with out the continual production of new melanin, via UV stimulation or faculatative production, we (meaning our industry) would be one hit wonders, and out of business. UV stimulates the production of new melanin, (thank-fully I might add), via several UV-induced pathways, (important note, not all of which create Free Radicals, and some of the pathways are also anti-oxidant independent. Which is what after reading above you know we are attempting to scavenge, with the anti-oxidants). Thus the process, while a form of oxidation, is not completely anti-oxidant sensitive.

That being said, the positive benefits of anti-oxidants found in quality skin care and tanning products is far too important to improving the overall quality of the skin and that is why all of the better products that you find incorporate and proudly advertise the fact they contain anti-oxidants.

For the most part, excluding a few of the “boat paddle, bath tub manufacturers in our industry,” lotion companies invest a lot of time, money and development efforts to find the right balance of ingredients to produce the best tanning and skin care results. Take your anti-oxidants daily, you will be happy you did….

BooBop · 06-14-2002, 11:22 AM

Thank you Eric for the great explanation. Boy, when asked to step up to the plate, you are in full swing. Thank you again.

Haole Mark · 06-14-2002, 12:03 PM

Eric, I must take issue with your openning statement.

"I've pondered this for awhile myself" (paraphrase).....

more like deep, concentrated self-talk & conciltation with some "heavy hitters"!!

Excellent response to my question. Obviously well thought and time consuming to put into words!
At this point all I can do is read your response about 6-9 more times to get a grasp of the info you're providing.
At first glance looks like you may know what you're talking about..
Thank you for a least attempting to shed some light on my ignorance.
And by no means take my sarcasim to reflect anything less than a true appreciation of your answer.
Sincerely, Mark

Formulated Solutions · 06-14-2002, 12:12 PM

You are talking to the "Self Proclaimed" king of sarcasim, trust me none taken..[ This Message was edited by: Formulated Solutions on 2002-06-14 12:46 ]

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06-13-2002, 12:42 PM	#1 (permalink)
BooBop I love Derf!! Join Date: Apr 5 2001 Posts: 9,489 Rep Power: 13	Cosmetic Aspects: Likes and dislikes differ, and personal taste can always change. But even so there always appears to be a happy medium of timeless elegance. With respect to tanning, the desired look falls somewhere between the pasty white facdes of yesteryear and the "overdone" tan which leaves the skin dry and leathery. Most preferable is a fresh-looking summer tan. Everything should be done in moderation. Light Protection: nature did not provide us with skin pigmentation as built-in cosmetic convenience. Instead, pigmentation as the callosity (thickening of the crneum) and as photoprotections(stabilization of the germ-plasm) acts as a screen to protect the body against too much sun. Melanin Sunthesis through UVB: Deep down in the skin are special cells called melanocytes. Once these are stimulated with UV light, they will utilize the amino acid tyrosine which they have stored up to produce the pigment melanin. Because these substances only absorb ultraviolet light of approximately 320nm, UVB rays must be present in order to achieve melanin production. UVA Melanogenesis: UVA can also formulate melanin but only when there exists enough photsensitizing material in the skin to bring about a UVB-type reaction. However, this requires a very high radiation intensity for a long period of time. On the other hand, UVB can induce the same desird melanin production utilizing very low levels of radiation with more frequent exposures (21). In addition, UVB will not penetrate as deeply into the lower layer of connective tissue in the skin. Melanin protects DNA: The pale pink colored melanin granules fromed in the melanocytes will travel upward toward the horny layer of croneum. They are stroed around the nuclei of the keratin cells there. In this manner, the pigment protects the UVB sensitive DNA located inside the nuclei without impeding the other positive effects of ultraviolet light. The energy absorbed by the pigment granules will be returned to the cell in form of heat. Pigment Darkening by UVA: In the preliminary stages of meleanin production, very little protection is offered to the skin. In order to render the pigmentation process effective, the melanin granules must darken (oxidize). this requires a higher dosage of long wave UVA. Antioxidats: The dosage of UVA must be sufficiently high in order to provide enough energy to initiate the oxidation process. It must be remembered that UVA rays do not carry as much energy as UVB ray. Longwave radition is essential becasue high does of shortwave rays will activate substances in the body which will hinder the tannin process such as asorbic acid and cystenine. these anti-oxidant not only inhibit oxidation of pigment but can even revers the proess. Thus, UVB serves to synthesize the pigment granules while UVA ensures their oxidation. Together they form a light protection mechanism. Oh Lord, someone stop me before I copy the whole book here. Sunbathing Today 2. revised Freidrich Wolff _________________ Barkin with the Big Dog since April 2002 Mitzi [ This Message was edited by: Mitzi on 2002-06-13 13:10 ][ This Message was edited by: Chippp on 2002-06-13 14:49 ]

06-13-2002, 09:12 PM	#2 (permalink)
Haole Mark Join Date: Mar 18 2002 Posts: 131 Rep Power: 7	Mitzi, I've asked this question before and no one gave an adequete response. Since by definition antioxidents hinder tanning(oxidation of melanin) why are antioxidents proudly featured in high quality Lotions?

06-13-2002, 09:28 PM	#3 (permalink)
BooBop I love Derf!! Join Date: Apr 5 2001 Posts: 9,489 Rep Power: 13	We will get you the answer soon. Promise.

06-14-2002, 10:09 AM	#4 (permalink)
BooBop I love Derf!! Join Date: Apr 5 2001 Posts: 9,489 Rep Power: 13	Haole, I have someone working on an answer for us. Eric Dann, our resident chemist will be address this soon.

06-14-2002, 10:57 AM	#5 (permalink)
Formulated Solutions Join Date: Oct 8 2001 Posts: 150 Rep Power: 7	Haole Mark, Good question, and I have pondered the question as well. In the formulation of products, especially ones that are derived to improve the quality of ones tanned skin; certainly a balance of ingredients, regardless of purpose is paramount to achieve the best results. The best explanation that I have been given, or the best answer that I could derive to the question is to understand the difference between Free-Radical Oxidation and UV-Induced Oxidation. There is a difference in the method of action, and how it will relate to ones ability to tan. The term Free Radical Oxidation is a generalized term used to describe an atom or molecule that has a reactive unbalanced number of valance electrons. Free Radicals are constantly attacking and waging havoc on our healthy cells, attempting to regain electrochemical stability. Free Radical Oxidation, a process by which Free Radicals rip electrons from normal molecules or cells, is one of the main reasons our cells are degraded and damaged over time, and Free Radicals become present in our bodies thorough both natural internal processes and external environmental influences. UV-Induced Oxidation creates basically the same type of instability in atoms or molecules, as does a free radical, and certainly has the potential to create other free radicals, however is unique in the fact that the electronic instability is solely caused by the UV exposure. When we use anti-oxidants in products, the list being almost endless of different forms of anti-oxidants, we are working toward the “scavenging” of free radicals within the skin, both naturally occurring and free radicals caused by the exposure to UV. This is a good thing and works to protect the skin. Ok, so then why use these in Tanning products, if everyone says the tanning is also a form of oxidation? Remember the Tan that we get from UV is (in simplified terms) is like a two-step process (not in any order) The direct oxidation of melanin or (tanning) also known as the Meirowsky phenomenon, in which you are getting the immediate pigment darkening of the Eumelain already present with in the skin. This oxidation caused by the direct UV exposure is anti-oxidant independent, and the long chain rod like Eumelain polymer darkens, even in the presence of high concentration of anti-oxidants. (Has more to do with the wavelength of light being absorbed by the molecule.) Pheomelanin is not stable under the same wavelengths of UV and tends to decompose. So as you know tanning is a controlled process, and with out the continual production of new melanin, via UV stimulation or faculatative production, we (meaning our industry) would be one hit wonders, and out of business. UV stimulates the production of new melanin, (thank-fully I might add), via several UV-induced pathways, (important note, not all of which create Free Radicals, and some of the pathways are also anti-oxidant independent. Which is what after reading above you know we are attempting to scavenge, with the anti-oxidants). Thus the process, while a form of oxidation, is not completely anti-oxidant sensitive. That being said, the positive benefits of anti-oxidants found in quality skin care and tanning products is far too important to improving the overall quality of the skin and that is why all of the better products that you find incorporate and proudly advertise the fact they contain anti-oxidants. For the most part, excluding a few of the “boat paddle, bath tub manufacturers in our industry,” lotion companies invest a lot of time, money and development efforts to find the right balance of ingredients to produce the best tanning and skin care results. Take your anti-oxidants daily, you will be happy you did….

06-14-2002, 11:22 AM	#6 (permalink)
BooBop I love Derf!! Join Date: Apr 5 2001 Posts: 9,489 Rep Power: 13	Thank you Eric for the great explanation. Boy, when asked to step up to the plate, you are in full swing. Thank you again.

06-14-2002, 12:03 PM	#7 (permalink)
Haole Mark Join Date: Mar 18 2002 Posts: 131 Rep Power: 7	Eric, I must take issue with your openning statement. "I've pondered this for awhile myself" (paraphrase)..... more like deep, concentrated self-talk & conciltation with some "heavy hitters"!! Excellent response to my question. Obviously well thought and time consuming to put into words! At this point all I can do is read your response about 6-9 more times to get a grasp of the info you're providing. At first glance looks like you may know what you're talking about.. Thank you for a least attempting to shed some light on my ignorance. And by no means take my sarcasim to reflect anything less than a true appreciation of your answer. Sincerely, Mark

06-14-2002, 12:12 PM	#8 (permalink)
Formulated Solutions Join Date: Oct 8 2001 Posts: 150 Rep Power: 7	You are talking to the "Self Proclaimed" king of sarcasim, trust me none taken..[ This Message was edited by: Formulated Solutions on 2002-06-14 12:46 ]

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