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Old 02-21-2005, 05:38 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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I don't think so, we are always told by lamp makers that you have to change your tannings lamps at XX hours. They are "dead" at XX hours. Yet, I have heard that lamps that a far beyond their useful life are still burning people. So the answer is to use a UV Meter right? Hmmmmmmmm? Wonder who came up with that idea, in relation to tanning lamps?

If I had lamps that were "dead" and they are burning people?? I would assume that they are still tanning. Who do we believe?
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Old 02-21-2005, 05:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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The meter.

The rated lamp life means close to NOTHING in the real world. My 9K90s at 500hrs are still within 12% of their original output metered at under 100hrs and ALMOST no black ends. I hear of some that put in the same lamps into a different bed and they last 100hrs and BLOW OUT.

All about the setup.

My meters allow me to know EXACTLY what the bed is putting out. I NEVER burn ANYONE. I NEVER have to question if it's the lamps or the person's skin. When I mean never I mean NEVER. The 5.0, 6.0, 7.0 is the way to go. Now there is a Vita D3 meter. Cool.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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I'd never burn anyone either if I had regs. to follow, but that's another thread (first sessions for a week of 2 mins.) I'd still have the same lamps!

After almost 7 years we have it down pretty good as far as exposure schedules, but as an example, when you are near the end of your lamp life and Skin Type 4+ walks in and wants the max, what do you do?

I really have to say the whole thing is a lamp manufacturers hoax........ ~shrug~ Convince me otherwise.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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What's a HOAX? The hoax is when you replace Cosmedico with Panther or some other CRAP. Also the lamps die off when they are turned on so the 7min tans could actually be killing off the lamps FASTER then a 20min tan (depending on heat, etc). This is the reason charging my the minute is STUPID.

I meter them regulary and they are ALMOST RIGHT ON with the manufacturer's claims (once again COSMEDICO and LSI are who I speak for. Generic is generic. Garbage in garbage out)

You ALSO have to remember. If your competition is Panther or generic friendly then a DEAD VHR is gunna perform better then a NEW generic ALL DAY LONG and that's too bad.

Once you understand the SCIENCE behind tanning then the rest is easy.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
 
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No offense, but meter all you want. Who came up with the meter? Before indoor tanning was there such a meter? Yes? Why? what was the purpose before indoor tanning lamps? I'm just curious.

If you are bored tomorrow, meter your lavalamp and give us a reading.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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Neon, I KNOW you are bored up there but I only had about 20 people today too. Don't hate cause you don't have. Before indoor tanning as there such a meter? Yes, it costs about $30K and they meter EVERYTHING. These are specific to tanning lamp output. No real need for a UVC meter or something that reads GAMMA RAYS.

Are you still useing the Dr Muller electric tanning lamps from 1950s?
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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I'm tanning more than you then? But why did the UV meter become practical to the indoor taninng business? When the indoor lamp manufacturers find a loophole? Can we convince them this meter means something in relation to the usefulness of there $20 lamps? (Or perhaps sell them more?)

Gamma rays?????? Watch out for the HULK. Har.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
 
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"But why did the UV meter become practical to the indoor taninng business"

Because lamp output depends on the application NOT just what the maker says they put out in a FIXED ENVIRONMENT.

Why do you have a speedometer, tachometer, odometer, fuel gauge, oil pressure, tire pressure, check engine light in your car when all you need is accelorator, and brake?
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Old 02-21-2005, 07:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Sounds nice, but who created the standard for UV readings on tanning lamps?
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Old 02-21-2005, 09:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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The point of a UV meter is to meter a set of bulbs initially, then track them over time to see how they are (or are not) losing their effectiveness.

As Engfant points out - some lamps "hold" better their strength than others. A given lamp also performs differently in different equipment. A meter helpa back up, numerically, what you "sense" from customer comments or your own experience when you tan (still plenty of "life" left in them, not giving you much,...).

Once you "know" how a brand of lamps works on your equipment, it becomes less critical to meter them frequently (in my opinion). However, some do because it can still help to determine if you got a 'bad batch' or if an unpublished "change" in the manufacturing specs has impacted the performance.
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