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For more of this information search the topic thread in this Skin Care Forum
Called Hope in a Tube..
C
Posted: 11/19/02 5:44p Profile PM Email WWW Quote IP
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Chris,
Can I Play?
With out a doubt #1 on my list is also #1 when it comes to vitamins that I take internally.
Not really one ingredient but a class of ingredients...Namely Anti-Oxidants.... I think we are going to be hearing more and more about their function in lots of metabolic pathways and there importance in combating free radical oxidation.
The term Free Radical Oxidation is a generalized term used to describe an atom or molecule that has a reactive unbalanced number of valance electrons. Free Radicals are constantly attacking and waging havoc on our healthy cells, attempting to regain electrochemical stability. Free Radical Oxidation, a process by which Free Radicals rip electrons from normal molecules or cells, is one of the main reasons our cells are degraded and damaged over time, and Free Radicals become present in our bodies thorough both natural internal processes and external environmental influences.
UV-Induced Oxidation creates basically the same type of instability in atoms or molecules, as does a free radical, and certainly has the potential to create other free radicals, however is unique in the fact that the electronic instability is solely caused by the UV exposure.
When we use anti-oxidants in products, the list being almost endless of different forms of anti-oxidants, we are working toward the scavenging of free radicals within the skin, both naturally occurring and free radicals caused by the exposure to UV. This is a good thing and works to protect the skin.
Ok, so then why use these in Tanning products, if everyone says the tanning is also a form of oxidation?
Remember the Tan that we get from UV is (in simplified terms) is like a two-step process (not in any order)
The direct oxidation of melanin or (tanning) also known as the Meirowsky phenomenon, in which you are getting the immediate pigment darkening of the Eumelain already present with in the skin. This oxidation caused by the direct UV exposure is anti-oxidant independent, and the long chain rod like Eumelain polymer darkens, even in the presence of high concentration of anti-oxidants. (Has more to do with the wavelength of light being absorbed by the molecule.) Pheomelanin is not stable under the same wavelengths of UV and tends to decompose.
So as you know tanning is a controlled process, and with out the continual production of new melanin, via UV stimulation or faculatative production, we (meaning our industry) would be one hit wonders, and out of business. UV stimulates the production of new melanin, (thank-fully I might add), via several UV-induced pathways, (important note, not all of which create Free Radicals, and some of the pathways are also anti-oxidant independent. Which is what after reading above you know we are attempting to scavenge, with the anti-oxidants). Thus the process, while a form of oxidation, is not completely anti-oxidant sensitive.
That being said, the positive benefits of anti-oxidants found in quality skin care and tanning products is far too important to improving the overall quality of the skin and that is why all of the better products that you find incorporate and proudly advertise the fact they contain anti-oxidants.
There are other ingredients that fall on the "hope in a bottle" list but for my dollar, give me the anti-oxidants.
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